“She built a cult following and sold it to Thai markets and restaurants in LA.” Now it’s Rabilwongse’s turn to garner a cult following and make his mark on the Los Angeles dining scene. The flavors coming out of the kitchen are pure Los Angeles, dreamed up by a Thai American chef who grew up less than a mile from the restaurant. Together, the trio started Budonoki as a pop-up before moving the deeply personal restaurant into Virgil Village in September 2023. Behind the bustling restaurant is chef Dan Rabilwongse (formerly of Bouchon, Hayato, Urasawa) and partners Eric Bedroussian (formerly of Majordomo) and Josh Hartley (formerly of Alinea Group, Helen’s Wines). By half past six, the main dining room buzzes with gregarious regulars who mostly live within a two-mile radius, while the patio fills with groups ready for a good time.
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The legend grew over the years, to the point where The New York Times and other publications were known to have repeatedly listed 1916 as the inaugural year, although no evidence of the contest exists. In 2010, however, promoter Mortimer Matz admitted to having fabricated the legend of the 1916 start date with a man named Max Rosey in the early 1970s as part of a publicity stunt. While the origins are debated, it is believed to have begun as a result of four immigrants who tried to eat as many hot dogs as possible to show off their patriotism.
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